Since I wasn't able to check out Taroko National Park during the Moon Festival long weekend because of a typhoon, I decided that I would take some days off. It was a holiday here on double ten day which is October 10th (Taiwan's National Day). We don't really get any days off for a Christmas holiday, so I decided to take the next working days off atfer the double 10th day (as it fell on a Thursday), this way it gave Matthew and I a full four days to drive to the park and explore it.
I'll be honest, since coming to Taiwan and learning of things to see and do, visiting Taroko Gorge and the East coast was really all I have cared about, and now I can cross at least one of them off of my list. There are two ways to get to the park from where we live, we can either take the highway all the way through Taipei and down the East coast to get to the main entrance of the park, which is about a 6 hour drive, or we can drive eastwards and cut through some mountainous roads to get to the end portion of the park which takes about 6 hours as well. We chose the second option.
While driving through the mountains, we came across an old English town. That's not the most appropriate description of it, because it's not really old and it was not established by English people. There is a section of this small mountain town that decided to build some buildings based off of the old English buildings in England. They even called this portion of the town "Old England" but it was established in 2006. It was neat I guess. It was mostly a big hotel with a clock tower and I believe there were some restaurants there as well.
After that we continued on our journey. We decided to stop at the side of the road to take a picture of a transport truck in a ditch. The roads are tight and narrow and on either sides there are small ditches so water can run down the mountain when the snow melts. While stopped at this accident, two large transport trucks carrying tree trunks drove past us, and when we continued on our way, one of those trucks had been in an accident. It ended up in the middle of the road and an SUV driving in the other direction was in the ditch and had also scraped the right side of their car before crashing it into the mountain side. No one was hurt, but we realized that this route was going to be a dangerous one. It was just before nightfall when we reached the top on the mountain and we were above clouds. It was a pretty scene but I was freezing! Our GPS read that we were at 10,758ft (3,279m). After that, the road was downhill for a while before coming to twists and turns.
We got into Taroko park while it was dark and we drove for a little while before looking for a place to set up our tent. We found some campground areas but couldn't figure out how to pay as we couldn't find an office near any of the campgrounds. We eventually drove a little further up the road, parked our car at the side, squeezed up by the railing and slept in it. It was so dark we couldn't see anything but I could hear rushing water so I knew we were near a river. This was my morning view when I woke up: a waterfall nearby.
The next morning we headed to Taroko town. There's not much there: a hostel, a resort, a convenience store. But not far from the town there's a bridge, Pudu Bridge, that leads to Xiangde Temple. First you must climb a bunch of stairs, but from the top you can get a great view of the Liwu river that runs through the park, as well as the nearby town. Next to the Temple there is the Tianfeng Pagoda (or The Heaven Summit Pagoda). I have a strange obsession with stairs, so of course I had to climb to the very top. The view was really pretty, although the railing around the patio was low and it was very windy up there, I was afraid that if I made too many sudden movements I might fall over. Thankfully, that never happened.
Pudu Bridge Tianfeng Pagoda (The Heaven Summit Pagoda)
Interior of Tianfeng Pagoda (The Heaven Summit Pagoda), climbing to the top.
View from the top of the Tianfengt Pagoda (The Heaven Summit Pagoda), it was windy but beautiful.
We started to climb back down and about half-way there are some little outdoor restaurants and a woman there sells some herbal tea that she hand picks in the mountains. When we were sitting there a nearby foreign couple, Andy and Rachel, chatted us up. They have lived in Taiwan for quite sometime and go to Taroko as often as they can during the summer months. They showed us around some of the secret spots, like a watering hole where people go swimming and one section of it is a natural hot spring. Matthew and I had done some research and had printed pages about the park, as well as a brochure and the dedicated sections in my travel book, but none of these mentioned this watering hole. Even though it was a more "secret" spot, there was a pathway down from the road to the swimming area, as well as toilets and change rooms, so it wasn't like an illegal thing. Unfortunately, they had closed off the watering hole recently because someone had died while swimming there from being hit by a rockslide. Rockslides are very common in the park and there are many signs throughout warning people. You can even borrow a hard hat from the visitor's office for the duration of your trip. Our two friends really wanted to go swimming, as did I so they showed us another spot. This one was totally illegal. We walked down part of a walking trail (Baiyang Falls trail), until we got to the river, then we essentially climbed down the rocks to get into the Liwu River and went swimming in it. The water was so cold, but on a sweltering hot day like that is was very refreshing.
Matthew enjoying the small waterfall and refreshingly cool water.
We left our stuff on a rock and ventured up stream for a bit, then we relaxed on some massive rocks and drank beers before heading back. I was wearing glasses, so I had taken them off and left them with our stuff because they're my only pair and I don't want to lose them (I was also hoping no one would steal our stuff while we were gone). However, I am about as blind as a bat without glasses so when we were venturing upstream, it was the hardest thing for me. People would say "Put your left foot on that rock there. See it? Step right there, it's right there!" I couldn't see anything but blue water, everything under the water you can forget about.
Sometimes the other people could see currents under the water, but I couldn't so I accidentally walked right into them and got swept away for a short distance. It was a little bit of a frightening experience, but it was very fun and exhilerating; maybe I like dangerous situations becuase they make me feel alive. On our way back, the most difficult part was getting back onto the rock where our stuff was. In the picture above with Matthew, you can see a small waterfall, the current there is really strong and Rachel fell in. She didn't look panicked and even said she would be able to get out of it. But before she could, Matthew jumps in trying to save her, only to be swept underwater. Then Andy tried to get closer to reach for them but slips and gets taken in as well. Of course, there's me sitting on the rock not wanting to even try to do what any of them have just done and on top of that I can't see anything; I couldn't tell if there were people on the path nearby that I could wave to for help either. The three of them managed to get back to where I was, out of harm's way, and we crossed the river a little further over so the current from the waterfall wouldn't be a bother. When we got to the other side, Matthew's sandals we floating in the water near a rock, he had lost them in the scuffle. He had reached out to them just in time as one had almost escaped. Other than that one minute where everyone was drowning, it was a pretty good time.
After that, we decided to go check out a suspension bridge. It happened to be right near where Matthew and I slept the night before. I thought that the bridge would lead somewhere, like a walking trail, but it didn't. The other side was just the forest, it was intriguing.
We then headed to a Jiuqudong (Tunnel of Nine Turns). I don't know why it is called that, it has more than nine tunnels and more then nine turns, so the name doesn't really make sense. It used to be the part of the highway that cars would take through the park (Cross-Island highway) but now it is a walking trail. This trail probably has the highest amount of rockslides in any area of the park. It was the reason they built the new road that goes through the mountain, as this one goes around the edge of the mountain. The rockslides were too disrupting and dangerous for vehicles, so they built the new road. There are signs everywhere on this trail telling you to wear a hard hat or to walk quickly between two points. It's not a very long trail but it was getting dark and we were all getting hungry so we walked most of it and turned back for dinner.
The old Cross-Island Highway which is now part of Jiuqudong (the Tunnel of Nine Turns) walking trail.
Walking through one of the tunnels along the trail. Being in a tunnel is probably the safest area of the trail as you aren't exposed to falling rocks as when you are in the open areas.
We decided to stay at the hostel our friends had recommended (which they were also staying at). We were both in need of a hot shower. We spent the evening drinking beers and playing cards with our new friends as the next day they had to head back to the city, Andy was playing in his band. We continued exploring the park. I wanted to hike some trails, and it was probably a good day to do that, as it was not very hot, and it was even drizzling for parts of it. First, we checked out the Baiyang Falls trail. This is the same trail where we all went swimming in the river. There was another suspension bridge on this trail; it looked a bit more modern.
Once you get to the end of the trail, there is a small barricade and a cave. If you want to see the waterfall you will have to walk into the cave, but be forewarned, you will get wet. It's not quite a traditional waterfall; you are in a cave and the water flows from out of the cracks in the rocks, so you're more or less inside the waterfall as opposed to just looking at one.
Here is Matthew and I inside the cave with the Baiyang waterfall. We both had soaked feet and were wearing our dorky raincoats. Despite the wetness, it was totally worth it.
Walking to the end and back of the Baiyang Falls trail takes about 2 hours, but it is an easy trail, mostly flat terrain. After getting soaked we decided to walk back and drive through the rest of the park and hopefully get to Hualien city on the East coast for dinner.
The road through the mountain/park is called the Cross-Island Highway and there are many road bridges. Like this one, called Cimu Bridge.
We drove through Yanzihkou (or Swallow Grotto Trail). This one isn't really a great walking path. You can essentially drive right through as the walkers just walk along the side of the road which runs parallel to the Liwu River. In the rock walls throughout this trail you can see neat little holes. It's a pretty short trail and to be honest, I didn't find it that interesting. The road is also very narrow so parking and making sure you aren't hit by traffic while walking is a bit of an annoyance.
We continued on our way to Hualien. There we got a bite to eat for dinner and afterward we got a foot massage. Believe me, after the hiking from that day, and my plan to hike again the next day, our feet were in need of some care. That was actually the first time I had ever gotten a foot massage. I had only had two full body massages prior to that in my life, one in Thailand and one in Taiwan when we were out celebrating the Moon Festival. But I had never gotten a foot massage; they don't focus on those areas during a full body massage. It was an interesting experience as I am one who is quite ticklish. I was pretty impressed with myself and my level of tolerance. After that, we crashed in another hostel and had a pretty amazing sleep if I may say so. The next day, we headed down part of the East coast so I could get a good look at the Pacific Ocean. I have this thing with the water; I used to be terrified of it, but now I am in love with it and the sounds of the crashing waves is like a lullaby to my ears. We parked across the street from the Farglory Ocean Park (it's an amusement park of sorts) and spent almost an hour just watching the ocean. It was a beautiful sunny day, and I even spotted some crabs!
After that, we decided to double back through the park as it would be a more interesting drive home than taking the highway all the way up north trough Taipei and home. Also, this way we could stop and check out some spots we had missed or didn't have time for previously.
The park actually has only one official Entrace, which is located on the
East side. So, we stopped to check out the Visitor's Centre (this is where you can pick up brochures and
borrow hard hats) on our way
back through the park. If you wanted to do the trails in order then it would
be wise for you to begin at the East end of the park.
The first stop after the park's entrance is Changchun Shrine (or the
Eternal Spring Shrine). There is a walking trail, mostly upstairs to two
separate lookout points, but the trail had been closed when we were
there due to recent rockslides. They had even put ropes criss-crossing
down the first staircase to stop people from doing the trail. Honestly, Matthew and I waited around because
we wanted to sneak in and do the trail.
It's a short trail, but like I
said, mostly going upstairs until you get to the top where there is a
pagoda and you can climb that as well. I've read that from the top you
can get one of the best views in the whole park. We never managed to sneak
onto the trail. We waited for like 45 minutes but it seemed like everytime a
group of people left, another big group of people were on the way.
That's the problem with the "tourist" areas, you get bus loads of people
one after the other.
Afterwards, we hopped back in the car and drove past another suspension bridge but this one was really long and it looked awesome. Unfortunately it was only opened to experienced hikers and you needed a permit to cross the bridge. They even had a guard standing at the gate to its entrace checking for proper equipment and the permit.
We then drove back through Yanzihkou (Swallow Grotto) trail as the road re-connects with the West direction of the Cross-Island Highway. We didn't make as many stops or do many hikes on the way home as it was a cooler, rainy day, unfortunately. Matthew did manage to take this panoramic picture of Jiuqudong (Tunnel of Nine Turns). As you can see, they post rockslide warning signs all over the park; there's no way you could miss them.
As we continued our drive out of the park, we stop at this old rackety thing. I'm not sure how long it hasn't been in use but it was interesting. It's also a marker for a less popular hiking trail that takes a total of eight hours to hike! We didn't do it. There was a trail at the East end of the park that I really wanted to do, but because it's a four hour trek Matthew said no. I am planning to do that trail with my mother when she visits in February (except it will be much colder here). I don't think my mother and I will do this eight hour trail though, I think that is a little much; it's also located on the West side and I'm not even sure if it's technically consider to be within the national park anymore.
The drive home was filled with twists and turns going downhil and then some uphill. I'm not going to lie, I felt a bit nauseated and couldn't wait to get to the bottom of the mountain; I had my eye on the GPS the whole time reading our alitutude. We stopped in the city to get some good food and finally headed home. It was a fun filled four days and on our last day off, it was time to do some laundry, write some lesson plans and get a good night's sleep before the new work week began.
Goodbye Taroko National Park