My stepmother, Amy, works in the HR department of some big company that builds jet airplane parts. Her department puts together quite a number of activities. While I was in the area, her work was going to Cambodia for a 3-day tour of the capital city, Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Since there were some spaces open and it was free, I of course joined them; Matthew decided not to join so it was Amy, my father and I. After waking up super early to catch our plane, we arrived in Cambodia and piled on a bus. One of the first things I noticed, as in many other Asian countries, was the number of scooters on the road.
A neat thing in Cambodia are the Tuk Tuks (taxis). I've been told that they have the same thing in the Philippines, and I was in one in Thailand (but I think they have a different name). These are the more common taxis and they appeared to out number the regular car taxis.
Our first tourist stop was at the National Museum of Cambodia, which is the country's leading historical and archeological museum as well as their largest museum of cultural history. There were all kinds of artifacts inside, old stone statues and inscribed tablets for example. It was a pretty big museum that was jam packed with stuff. There were even some old ladies taking donations for the museum (I couldn't resist - I did study Art History in university and I try to support the arts whenever possible); she gave me a stick filled with flowers as a thank you. We got back on the bus and drove to our next location. The one terrible thing about these guided tours is that you spend a lot of time on buses, and although you get to see many things, some times you don't get a good view or enough time. We passed a few monuments while driving but we never stopped so I didn't get any good pictures of them, nor can I remember which ones they were.
Next we hit up Wat Phnom: a buddhist temple built in 1373 and sits 27m (88.5ft) above ground. It is the tallest religious structure in the city. There were a lot of poor people working there (they don't work for the temple). For example, there was a family who had a table and a cooler selling cold drinks. Little boys ran around with bird cages trying to get a visitor to buy a live bird. I have no idea what you're supposed to do with a live bird after you buy it - maybe let it go...? There was even a young girl selling postcards and bracelets; she was there alone and I was looking for postcards anyhow. You come to appreciate your own upbringing and even your luckiness at just having been born in a "better" country. There is no way anyone would have let my mother remove me from school to go work on the streets when I was 8 years old.
We checked out the grounds at Wat Phnom and then crowded back onto the bus and drove to the Preah Barum Reachea Veang Chaktomuk Serei Mongkol (a.k.a. the Royal Palace). The kings have lived here since the 1860's, except during the rule of the Khmer Rouge (1975-1979).
The Royal Palace takes up an area of 174,870m
². This is the Preah Thineang Dheva Vinnichay Mohai Moha Prasat, which means the sacred Seat of Judgement (a.k.a. Throne Hall). It is used today as a place for religious and royal ceremonies (coronations and weddings) as well as a meeting place for guests.
The Khemarin Moha Prasat (a.k.a. Khemarian Palace) means Palace of the Khmer King. It is the official residence of the King of Cambodia.
This building is Hor Samran Phirun.
The Preah Thineang Chan Chhaya (a.k.a Moonlight Pavilion) is a stage used for Khmer classical dance and banquets.
The Royal Palace complex is a popular tourist attraction in Phnom Penh, as visitors are allowed to wander around the Silver Pagoda compound and the central compound which contain the Throne Hall and the Moonlight Pavilion. Buildings that are closed to the public are the King's living area, Villa Kantha Bopha, Serey Mongkol Pavilion, royal garden and others.
After the Royal Palace we got to explore some markets and do some shopping. We then headed to the river to board a boat for a little tour of the Mekong River. This river runs through Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, Myanmar, China, and Tibet.
In one direction you get to Vietnam, in the other, Thailand.
After the boat tour on the Mekong River, we had dinner at a nice restaurant sitting on the shore of the river. After stuffing our tummies with delicious food it was time to head back to the hotel for a much needed deep sleep. Tomorrow would be a new day with lots of walking.
Our first stop was the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum; not going to lie, this day was one of the most depressing days of my life and I am not ashamed to admit that I cried at certain sites we visited. It was originally a high school, but was converted to the Security Prison 21 (a.k.a. S-21) in 1975 by the Khmer Rouge regime, under the orders of Pol Pot. This was one of 150 execution centre and 20,000 people were killed here. Only three people survived S-21 and two of them are still alive today.
The Khmer Rouge was the name of the Communist Party of Kampuchea in Cambodia. They were attempting to create an agrarian-based communist society. They killed everyone who they thought was involved in free-market activities (capitalist, urban dwellers, people with an education, and people with connections to foreign governments). At one point, when the party wanted to build, they had to get engineers/architects, etc from foreign countries because they had murdered all of their own.
These are some of the rooms inside the school. One room has an old bed frame that was used to tie down the victims and torture them to get "confessions" out of them. The other is a cell, just large enough to fit one adult person chained to the floor.
Trials for the tops leaders are still ongoing, but Pol Pot died (suspected suicide) in 1999.
After exploring the old high school of torture, we traveled to Choeung Ek (Killing Fields).
It is the site of mass graves of victims of the Khmer Rouge from 1975-1979. Over one million people were executed during their reign. There are mass graves scattered around the area. Originally prisoners were killed at the prison and buried there, but once they had run out of burial space at the prison, they began transporting the prisons to Choeung Ek to be executed.
This is one such mass grave site of 166 victims who had been decapitated. A lot of the bodies at this site were exhumed because of heavy rainfalls that washed away the dirt and bones/bodies were discovered. Some remains are still being found today.
This is the Killing Tree. This tree was used by executioners by holding babies by their ankles and whipping them against the tree.
Another tree, known at the Magic Tree, was used to hang a loudspeaker so that the other people could not hear the scream of the victims who were killed here.
It's hard to avoid the bodies. On the path, there was a body that has been washing up during the rainy season. I felt horrible when I noticed that I had actually stepped on someone's rib cage.
The victims are buried everywhere, there wasn't exactly specified locations for all the graves. Most of the victims were buried wherever they had died. However, the majority of them were thrown into a pit with a lot of people, there were beaten/tortured and then buried. Some of the victims hadn't even died yet so they ended up being buried alive. The executioners used farming told to injure/kill their victims; they never shot a single bullet because the bullet was considered too expensive. The guns were mostly used to frighten and intimidate the people.
Inside the Stupa at Choeung Ek: there are more than 5,000 human skulls from all ages.
I definitely learnt a lot about this tragedy that I had no idea had happened. I grew up in Canada and we didn't explore any history outside of our own country and were barely taught anything about the United States even though we share the largest land border in the world with them. The scary thought was that this happened in the '70s when my parents were alive and had they been in Cambodia at that time, they would have most likely been killed.
The Khmer Rouge killed many foreigners as well. There were 488 Vietnamese, 31 Thai, 1 Laotian, 1 Arab, 1 British, 4 French, 2 Americans, 1 New Zealander, 2 Australians and 1 Indonesian died at the Security Prison 21. no foreign prisoners survived captivity but some others died before being transferred to the prison, so the numbers of exact foreigners to have died are unknown.
Honestly, these two locations were super depressing but very educational and definitely got me thinking about how awful humans can be. It also made me curious about the psychology behind the soldiers following some of these orders. I haven't been in direct danger and told to murder another being or be killed myself but I hope I would just chose death. It might sound idealistic but I don't think I'd ever feel very human after committing such an atrocious act, and the idea of living the rest of my life like that just seems pointless. Hopefully I'll never be put in such a scenario.
So what do people do after something that depressing? Well, we go to a casino to gamble and drink of course! After some much needed "de-stressing" we headed back to the hotel for a last night of sleep in Cambodia and back to Singapore and Malaysia to share my experiences with Matthew who was house-sitting for the weekend.
Our amazing tour guide!